![]() ![]() This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, ’s PC). Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. The build stack has also been completely redesigned. ![]() To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door. ![]() This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers. You always need a good baseline and starting with a printer that you KNOW is accurate is a big part of that.Įdited Sunday at 02:00 PM by GregValiant The "Flow" may need to be touched up for particular materials (EX: I run PETG at 105% flow for all features) or for particular models (rare unless of a special situation like a single wall model). When all of that is copacetic, the printer will print dimensionally accurate parts. The tube constantly rotates in that fitting and gets chewed up by the blades in the fitting and loosens over time which can cause a gap to form between the back of the nozzle and the bottom of the tube. Lastly, I trim back the bowden tube at the hot end fitting by about 6mm and leave a nice square cut. I level the build plate without the glass on it because I level with a piece of paper and the constant adjustments can cause it to have a slight bend cross-corner. My monthly PM is to go back over all of that to make sure nothing got out of whack. The adjustment is to shim the Z motor mount (I ended up with. The Z lead screw must remain parallel to the Z upright as the X beam travels upward in the Z. When adjusted correctly, you should just be able to turn each wheel with two fingers.īelts should "twang like the strings on a bass guitar". The "snugness" of the trolley wheels is accomplished by adjusting the cams of the wheels that have hex features. They must also be parallel when viewed from the front. The adjustment is to loosen the mounting screws that come up from the bottom. The Z uprights must have their front faces parallel. That allows me some up-down movement at the right end and I can get the "X" beam perpendicular to the Z uprights. I leave the outboard one tight and let it be a pivot point. I've drilled a hole in the left Z upright to allow me to pass an allen wrench through and get to the inboard screw. On my Ender it's a PITA because the left screws are hidden by the bracket. The rotation of the "X" beam is adjusted by loosening the trolley brackets that ride on the "Z" uprights. The rotation about the "X" is adjusted by loosening the screws that come in from either side and are below the "Z" uprights. ![]() The rotation of the "Y" beam about the "Z" is adjusted by loosening the screws that come up from the bottom of the lower main cross beam. All the open frame cartesian printers are necessarily similar. ![]()
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